A Sight, a Line, a Sense of Evening

The sight I see and still enjoy is the sight of the mountains against which the old and east of Bogota reclines. I see them with the dawn, I see them in the early morning, I see them in the late afternoon and after dark I see the lights. (I mean I have good views.) The mountains are green and you can see the individual trees, but near the top the foliage wears thin and you see the patient, rising rock. There is often a grey fog along the mountains, sometimes a band of clouds white in the sunlight, and when the rain is coming, you can see it coming down the mountains. They brood and satisfy, the mountains, and on their lower slopes rises the city, the highest tower standing in the foreground, straight and slim and half as high.

* * *
Borges made me glad with a line about parapets cracked by the usury of time. I have at last been feeling a slackening of the struggle of the Spanish against me. I can read articles with clarity and ease now, I can speak without concentrating, I have acquired the bad habit of dropping my Ds like a Colombian, and Borges is becoming a familiar spirit. It is becoming a medium of my consciousness again, the Spanish.

* * *
I travel in the dark before the dawn and in the dark after sunset. There is a pleasant sense of evening to the city the early morning does not have. I am searching for evidence of something external operating on my consciousness, rather than something I supply, but without success. I hear the fowls all making melody in the morning, not the evening, and I wonder if that is part of it—they sleep all the night with open eyes, and are loud before 5AM, when the traffic is silent. There is a warmth to the city lights that even a chilly evening holds over a warmish dawn. Perhaps it is the pollution, but I think the quiet is different—these answers do not fit the question with the satisfaction of a proper plug.

Strangely, I have more energy at the end of the day and not in the morning: I have most energy at the end of my classes, around 8PM. I have never been this way in former times, only in Bogota.

Ideal & Practical

When I was younger than I am, I used to be a little less practical. One of the things I remember doing was not allowing the windshield to warm up before scraping it. I would have considered it merely lazy, and so my ideals did not permit such erroneous behavior. I am not ashamed of such things, but I no longer practice things such as that because I have come to believe that rather than avoiding laziness, I was practicing an undue rigidity. The pleasure of holding such persons as drive off with the wipers frantically going to attempt to remove the significant accumulation of ice before anything crucial happens in contempt is, perhaps, diminished from that which I had formerly, I admit. I had many such rigidities when I was younger than I am, and I would like to think I still have a few that seem to me principled rigidities, though at the moment I can think of none.

Ideals, of course, are not the sort of thing calculated to deliver what a convenience does. They are the kind of things more generally associated with inconvenience, and therefore generally neglected. Practical matters, on the other hand, tend to result in more conveniences, and to short-sighted persons practical matters have more apparent benefits. It seems to me persons are wrong when they neglect and ideal because it is inconvenient. Ideals have their own realm and place in the life of any grown human, but there is, as well, a realm and place of the practical.

It struck me this morning while on my way to work (no more ice-scraping here in Bogota, no more warming up a car and driving myself, no more concern about petrol or changing the oil; but other more congenial foresightings are required) when I saw an old chap suddenly squeeze through a gap in the rail of the station and walk over the grass toward the road. The road can be crossed by ascending the long ramp to the pedestrian bridge and then descending again on the other side, but the more direct way is to hop the fence and follow the worn footpath and run across the road. I doubt there are any laws about jaywalking here, and I made a note to my self about squeezing through the gap in the rail and running across the street if I ever were in a hurry.

Colombians, I further reflected, are very practical in that way. Here is a society in which there are mental rigidities (the law codes, the paper work, the bureaucracy, just the fact that I have to write the S/N of my laptop and have a guard examine it when entering or exiting Siemens), but it is also a world of comfortable practicalities: you can always find the straightest point between A and B clearly marked—if not always paved; you can always cross the street whenever you feel like it—just look out for traffic, traffic never waits for a pedestrian (this is a violation of the notion that the strong ought to give way to the weak if you think physically, but if you think in terms of the options of the ambulatory object, then it is not: a pedestrian has more options than a car does when it comes to responding to external stimuli—a pedestrian has to be more alert here, but if one takes into account the silliness of crosswalks, etc., then one can say a pedestrian is more free; more responsibilities = more freedom of choice); there’s none of the notion that a woman has to get the seat on the bus (though the aged, anybody carrying a baby within or without, and the disabled must have the seat, and this is observed scrupulously); and a general flexibility of attitude, a willingness to adapt to the circumstances (or adapt the circumstances), and anything else along those lines one might say exists, exists.

And so these things came about in my mind, and I reflected that what one needs to learn is exactly the boundaries of the realm of the ideal and the realm of the practical. I believe we humans are the intersection of many such sets of opposites, or oppositions, and the duty of the wise man is not only to distinguish and to delimit—you have to start there, and it is only a fool that fails to realize it—but also to understand, of these things, the relationship. I think Bogota will be a good place for this.

Otro poema de los dones

Gracias quiero dar al divino
Laberinto de los efectos y de las causas
Por la diversidad de las criaturas
Que forman este singular universo,
Por la razón, que no cesará de soñar
Con un plano del laberinto,
Por el rostro de Elena y la perseverancia de Ulises,
Por el amor, que nos deja ver a los otros
Como los ve la divinidad,
Por el firme diamante y el agua suelta,
Por el álgebra, palacio de precisos cristales,
Por las místicas monedas de Ángel Silesio,
Por Schopenhauer,
Que acaso descifró el universo,
Por el fulgor del fuego
Que ningún ser humano puede mirar sin un asombro antiguo,
Por la caoba, el cedro y el sándalo,
Por el pan y la sal,
Por el misterio de la rosa
Que prodiga color y que no lo ve,
Por ciertas vísperas y días de 1955,
Por los duros troperos que en la llanura
Arrean los animales y el alba,
Por la mañana en Montevideo,
Por el arte de la amistad,
Por el último día de Sócrates,
Por las palabras que en un crepúsculo se dijeron
De una cruz a otra cruz,
Por aquel sueño del Islam que abarco
Mil noches y una noche,
Por aquel otro sueño del infierno,
De la torre del fuego que purifica
Y de las esferas gloriosas,
Por Swedenborg,
Que conversaba con los ángeles en las calles de Londres,
Por los ríos secretos e inmemoriales
Que convergen en mí,
Por el idioma que, hace siglos, hablé en Nortumbria,
Por la espada y el arpa de los sajones,
Por el mar, que es un desierto resplandeciente
Y una cifra de cosas que no sabemos
Y un epitafio de los vikings,
Por la música verbal de Inglaterra,
Por la música verbal de Alemania,
Por el oro, que relumbra en los versos,
Por el épico invierno,
Por el nombre de un libro que no he leído:
Gesta Dei per Francos,
Por Verlaine, inocente como los pájaros,
Por el prisma de cristal y la pesa de bronce,
Por las rayas del tigre,
Por las altas torres de San Francisco y de la isla de Manhattan,
Por la mañana en Texas,
Por aquel sevillano que redactó la Epístola Moral
Y cuyo nombre, como él hubiera preferido, ignoramos,
Por Séneca y Lucano, de Córdoba,
Que antes del español escribieron
Toda la literatura española,
Por el geométrico y bizarro ajedrez,
Por la tortuga de Zenón y el mapa de Royce,
Por el olor medicinal de los eucaliptos,
Por el lenguaje, que puede simular la sabiduría,
Por el olvido, que anula o modifica el pasado,
Por la costumbre,
Que nos repite y nos confirma como un espejo,
Por la mañana, que nos depara la ilusión de un principio,
Por la noche, su tiniebla y su astronomía.
Por el valor y la felicidad de los otros,
Por la patria, sentida en los jazmines
O en una vieja espada,
Por Whitman y Francisco de Asís, que ya escribieron el poema,
Por el hecho de que el poema es inagotable
Y se confunde con la suma de las criaturas
Y no llegará jamás al último verso
Y varía según los hombres,
Por Frances Haslam, que pidió perdón a sus hijos
Por morir tan despacio,
Por los minutos que preceden al sueño,
Por el sueño y la muerte,
Esos dos tesoros ocultos,
Por los íntimos dones que no enumero,
Por la música, misteriosa forma del tiempo.

– Borges

Colombian Identity

Having long conversations with Colombians in the export business leads to topics that touch on Colombia’s troublesome neighbors, the USA of course, and other international ideas. In terms of cultural influence, the center of gravity is Argentina. Mexico exerts quite an influence in this area, but even here in the north of the South American continent the dominant power seems to be Argentina. I even heard the interesting comment from somebody who went to Montevideo (not Argentina, but its satellite, Uruguay—my native country) who said they’re Europeans down there: the buses stop where they’re supposed to and all that. I don’t know whether Argentina is that way or not, but it’s more like that.

Colombia’s troublesome neighbors, of course, are Venezuela and Equador. Venezuela is the rich brother but Colombians shake their heads at the feckless policies of Venezuela and the long-term damage to the infrastructure, culture and possibilities being perpetrated by the politics of resentment. It illustrates the difference: Colombians have considered themselves the poorer neighbor (which is why they export to Venezuela) but they consider themselves a nation of laws and checks and balances. There are a lot of legalities to be observed in Colombia, and they tend to choke the flee flow of commerce, but these laws can be counted on: they’re regular and the various branches have power one over the other. In Venezuela things can change in a rather arbitrary way.

I have found the Colombian faith in the institutions of their government and their pride in their own country (when they’re not being sentimental) quite strong—surprisingly so and perhaps rightly so. Almost fifty years of civil war has made them wary and prudent, and their exposure to the raw version of the politics and economics of resentment their own native terrorist organizations represent ought to count for something with most persons of sanity. They have real problems with which they are coming to terms and all these surrounding examples of nuttery to help them steer their way.

How to renew a tourist visa in Colombia

So if you stay a long time in Colombia as a tourist, you’ll have to renew your visa. You can get 60 days to begin with, but after that you have to renew every 30, and you can only stay for 180 per calendar year. The first 60 days’ visa is free, but the renewals require payment. I’m hoping I’ll only have to renew it once this way.

I’ve found out the address to go for renewals is Subdireccion de Extranjeros, Calle 100 # 11B-27.

Not much information on the DAS site.

Weird how when you get DAS on the internet, their IP resolves to Argentina (das.gov.co).

Alone with none but thee, my God

Alone with none but thee, my God,
I journey on my way.
What need I fear when thou art near,
O King of night and day?
More safe am I within thy hand
than if a host should round me stand.

My destined time is known to thee,
and death will keep his hour;
did warriors strong around me throng,
they could not stay his power:
no walls of stone can man defend
when thou thy messenger dost send.

My life I yield to thy decree,
and bow to thy control
in peaceful calm, for from thine arm
no power can wrest my soul.
Could earthly omens e’er appal
a man that heeds the heavenly call?

The child of God can fear no ill,
his chosen dread no foe;
we leave our fate with thee, and wait
thy bidding when to go.
‘Tis not from chance our comfort springs.
thou art our trust, O King of kings.

Attributed to St. Columba

Psalm 90: A prayer of Moses the man of God

Perhaps it is my favorite Psalm. It has gotten to where I am reluctant to read it because I’m afraid I have abused that part by reading it too much—or excluded other things. I think I love the 90th Psalm because of the atmosphere of it most of all. It is so full of an ancient, weary wisdom; a wisdom of reflection on hard experiences and realized almost with reluctance, the fruit of some surrender. Perhaps the folly of men is in it heaped like the desert sands: I always picture Moses writing it in a tent being shaken by the desert wind.

I imagine I hear many voices when I read it: voices of age and wisdom and always of weariness—Moses with all the wisdom of Egypt and all the years in the desert searching for an end to the journey, and with a vision of the glory of God; T.S. Eliot with his weariness and learning amid decadence, his limitations and his triumph in the Four Quartets; Dante with his impulse to see beyond the world, his ambition and achievement and humility; Shakespeare I hear, speaking in the mouth of Prospero at the end of a life of genius; and Yeats, of course, though in an alien way. I find the slow anguish of the poem consoling, the serenity gained through deep insight valuable, and the bold, beautiful request that ends it astonishing—who would ever think to say such a marvelous thing? “Let the beauty of the Lord our God be upon us.”

Here is revealed religion—nothing else can be so strange and upon reflection be so satisfying.

We are looking for a place to live, and since we really don’t know how to go about it, the circumstances keep changing. I dislike nothing so much as talking on the phone, and the only way to get a place is to do that. We made a list on Monday in an area we thought would be good, but the whole idea got derailed by the subsequent events.

On Tuesday it began with the contagious panic from the unsolicited advice of another person; the next day after the first class I realized I had four hours of commuting to do a day and still with the sense of panic thought I needed to find a place to live quickly; that evening I went to a one-on-one class with an executive who started taking charge of my class. I was nauseated by the time the class was over and was glad I had nothing in my stomach. I was sick with being worried about finding an apartment, with having been awake since 3AM, with concentrating on descriptions of an x-ray machine being offered by an intelligent and decisive person, and with having wasted all afternoon being too tired and sick to do anything; it was rather miserably I got on the Trasmilenio for the long ride home. I got a seat and against the window, but I got the wrong bus: the one that went through downtown.

In that state I saw one of the most riveting sights of Bogota so far. Bogota at night, in certain parts of it and not a few, can be very squalid. They set the trash out to be picked up during the night in many places, so you have the bags in stacks and the recyclers here pick through them (though they’re putting them out of business by changing the laws, which is actually a stupid thing to do), and the street dogs are not loath to participate, and then there’s the bums—bums seems so mild a term for them. The lights in Bogota tend to be dimmer, so you have ill lit streets and trash and vagrants, and in the night that part of town also begins exuding its moral squalor, none of which was improved by my frame of mind. And then I saw it: a whole block’s length of wide sidewalk in a dim area strewn with trash, some of it actually blazing on the corner, some being picked through by hunched human figures, and with the light of the flames reflected on their helmets, armed soldiers marching two by two in the background. It was so science-fictional I was almost cheered.

It was the low point of the week. After that the Lines arrived to help us with things here; I figured out that the most important thing was to plan my lessons rather than find a house; I realized the riding isn’t too expensive ($3 a day in fares), I can read on the Transmilenio, and I have the time right now since I only work 16 hours a week; the next class, being planned, was less stressful and more possible; and it all made a little more sense, especially the recognition that in many ways, Bogota is stuck in the 1970′s—an intriguing thing. There came a few more discouragements Friday, but nothing on the scale of Wednesday.

I have never gone through difficulties I have not later been grateful for, that I remember. It seems to me this is something the atmosphere of Psalm 90 carries with it: the anguish of human weakness and foolishness, the devastating and yet essential power of God, God’s serenity and deep purpose, and the certainty that even though we live on the futile plane of the temporal, we intersect eternity, God is our true dwelling place, his beauty can rest upon us, and the works of our hands are things to be established.

These are my two concerns right now: work and a place to live. And yet they are not my concern and somehow they have to do with more than this mutable realm: there is a purpose moving in the whirling of the fragments, there is a wisdom that arises, even in a man, out of reflection on an ill-spent hour, or day, or life, and that the weariness of that knowledge is real but not oppressive because it comes with the insight that sees an unchangeable benevolence. Strange how finiteness can weigh on us; it prompts the reflection that nobody must feel so free as the one who is infinite, with his omniscience, his omnipotence, his omnipresence—all his unlimited abilities to match what to us appear unlimited burdens. There is wisdom in knowing that things do not exist for man, they exist for God; there is weariness against it, and serenity as well.

I hear those wise words, when I think along these lines, of Lancelot Andrews praying that the Lord would teach him for nothing earthly, temporal or mortal to long nor to wait. His voice also sounds in the ancient language of the prayer of Moses the man of God, for he also has made an utterance of insight into the relationship of the human condition and the permanent realm. Who could have devised a more mysterious point of contact for things in the universe than that point we call the human soul? The gods of Greece observed men with some curiosity. The God of Moses has made man to look within, to look at that point of eternity meeting time, and through it espy other things more rare and wonderful than all those in the world.

Here we are numbering our days, in Bogota. May they be many.

Speaking of the works of our hands, I just got an acceptance for a review: my second paid publication!

More to Come

Readers de habala hispana with conservative curiosity may enjoy this link.

I’ve never had a job that more taxed my intelligence and creativity—at least at this point; I’ve always had to pay to do something that required any real thinking and creativity. Now I have to scramble a bit, and finding an apartment has to be put on hold even though commuting four hours a day needs the relief of a place with better location. I have to help a demanding—polite and nice, but demanding—executive learn confidence in his use of English when he delivers presentations.

I ran across the link in my researches.

Wanderings Perpetrated

We found the best Parrilla yet. It has two locations on the same street, on opposite sides and not a block apart. It is down in the disreputable section around 58th and the Avenida Caracas. Twice the price of your average parrilla, for the most part, but so far the best meat (and tender) we have found in the city, and copious (but usually meat is copious, just tough and not so copious), and actually a meal not predominant in carbohydrates. It was a great, settling meal, not far from an elaborate church that stands with the mountains in the background and the pigeons in the foreground, and deserving of great fame, like the yucca that we had with our meat.

* * *
It is a city full of curiosities, among which we were searching for an apartment. I want someone to help me who actually enjoys such searches. Of the three apartments we’ve had I found the first because I went to Minneapolis alone to find one, and I settled on the first one I could find. The other two were found by Katrina because she likes searching and I hate spending time in wordly affairs. But here Katrina can’t do it, since you have to call in Spanish. I just have to steel myself and do it without any emotions (surely the chiefest sign that an age of grace and humanity has passed is the existence of that most nefarious device so diabolically proliferate in these last days, the telephone).

* * *
Being on the cusp of a new job, being employed, makes me feel like my life is draining away. I am fighting off the feeling, but worldly affairs are dreadful. I have been among a sect of Protestants who with sincerity if not with subtleness of perception believe man was made for work. If the work of man can be distinguished from toil, if the work of man is directed toward the arts of leisure, then I can agree. But these people believe that business is blessed, that man was made to be in continual activity at least six days a week, and their ideal is not my Homo Ludens, but Homo Economicus. I am not Homo Economicus.

It is a consolation that I do not own property and that I no longer own a car, but I have a wife and cannot entirely withdraw from worldly affairs. And it is a small price to pay for a wife (notice how involved in worldly affairs the woman of Proverbs 31 is, however, and tell me there isn’t something unbiblical in the notion that the husband must support the wife). We must be in the world for what is, after all, only the time of a fleeting shadow before the sun dispels the present darkness and the day of eternity begins: when we shall rest.

* * *
So having been diligent in my studies, having been diligent in the loathsome business of looking for work, and having done some diligence in the unhappy business of looking for a place to live—which I am sure I shall not, in the end, regret—I was ready to look back on this life full of ephemeral accomplishments (other than lunch, which was a great success and filled me with much cheerfulness, among other things) and decide it was time to sit in the sunlight reading, thinking, reflecting.

* * *
I am worried that I have already spent two hundred pages of Lewis, a whole book of Eddison, a slender, negligible work on translation, and some two hundred pages of Yeats. I don’t think the Lewis is very renewable, except as a source for consultations. The Eddison is renewable and so, happily, is the Yeats which is very valuable—but then it makes me think I’ll never find things again the fortuitous way I found the Yeats. If I regret anything in coming to Colombia it is in being a person who has finds few greater pleasures (however meagerly) than those of English literature and that I am very prone to feeling on the verge of exhausting them: being here makes the fear somewhat acute.

* * *
It is like being in the world, this being in the world. And yet, as has been made obvious and perhaps some have understood, it is ridiculous to feel at all uneasy. I finished re-reading Cymbeline this afternoon in the sunlight, and I closed Shakespeare with a sense of having come around full circle. My youth no longer seemed remote and I living a posthumous life; I felt connected to it, or the memory of the places shone more real. I wonder if my sense of life in Minnesota will grow distant. Strange how the sun upon a page—as I wrote my reflections—gave me a sense of real proximity to the places of my childhood and to the afternoons reading books from the British Council later in Mexico. Why should it seem closer just because I am physically closer to the places? I’m still not there and it seems to me that one’s geographical location, short of the actual places, would not make memories seem suddenly less remote. Shakespeare preserves a sense of the vastness of the world and of the particularity of his own land: perhaps that suggested it to me, or perhaps it was the yucca.

Bogota Nocturne: Fragments Shored against My Ruin

Evening

The clouds were piled in the west
in splendor and resplendent, white,
intolerable with glory from the sun.
Beneath, the crouching mountains wait
under the lengthening grey shadow,
and the waiting city twinkles
with groping, crawling lights.

Restaurant

Bar and samovar,
old world steam;
the lines of Borges,
the sound a sound
of mincing bandoneon;
bread and mayonnaise,
chimichurry
poised alongside;
male waiters
in solicitous
long aprons,
deft and instant;
cloth and cutlery,
and the whistling swing
of kitchen doors;
gifts from another age
still lingering.

Connections

Last night the rain on Bogota—
the lights shone brighter,
drew lines through the darkness
after the dim café we left behind.
I remember the traffic, the transmilenio,
the patient puddles and uneven pavements.

This morning the rain fell gently,
the umbrellas went gleaming, dodging,
and people went and scurried.
Surfaces shone in the light
of an indistinct, grey sky,
and water ran metallic, gurgling.

Borges in La Candelaria

The melancholy midnight
devoid of the forlorn cheer
of a lighted, passing bus
listens to a barking dog
in the winding alleys
of the old town on the hill.

The eaves are full
of centuries of sagging—
how many roofs
over the ancient,
crooked timbers
sense the damp
of this unnumbered evening?

Borges like a candle
through the window
sheds his light
upon the gleaming pavement
of this, our mutual night.

Nice Place, Bogota

We wandered around the center of town where the old buildings are in which all the famous people were born. I wish I could have lived in Bogota in the days when it was still centered around the square in the old section. I imagine they held the market there weekly, or twice a week right in front of the cathedral and the National Congress—the heart of Colombia’s government—for many centuries.

Finishing with our TEFL course at last, we took a taxi along the side of the eastern hills, we could see across the valley, then we plunged down into the old quarter. The place where I am to be employed is in an old house two blocks east of the Plaza Bolivar, the ancient center of this town of eight millions. This weekend is the bicentennial of the Revolution, but in only 19 more years Bogota will celebrate the 500th anniversary of the founding of the city itself (just twenty-one years after Luther nailed his theses to the door).

So we wandered downtown afterward, had coffee and forgetting what I was saying I ordered a kilo instead of a libra of coffee and got two pounds—ground. Downtown is alive with people swarming all over the place, having coffee, mostly, from 5-6, shopping, and heading all over the warrens of this metropolis. It’s strange how much remains down in the oldest place, because the city has expanded north for some two hundred blocks, and sprawled west over the valley to lap the hills in the distance, and though the people swarm all over it on foot in quantities, the crowds are nowhere as great as down where it has been for almost five hundred years.

If I work 14 hours a week I can walk away with 1.2 million COPs after medical and taxes. If I work 30 hours a week I can have a tidy income on which to live here. And if I can get some private classes charging 30,000 the hour, or more when I have a CELTA certificate (I’m going to get it through my new company, if I don’t get a better job offer between now and the contract), then I’ll be rich beyond the dreams of avarice—provided I stay in Bogota or places of equivalent costs of living.

We’ll see how it works out, but it does look like a handy deal, coming to Bogota. Next item: find an apartment.

Interesting Day

I might have a job. I have to think about it and ask for advice, but I think it looks good.

International House is the place, and they’ll get me a visa, and they’ll pay better than the chaps I turned down last week, and they want to put the British Council out of business.

In other news, I got another article into Colombia Reports! Today we found another six museums near International House. We attended the military museum, but I don’t know what to say about a collection of guns. They had a lot.

Almost Done

Nearly at the end of the class. Soon I’ll have a TEFL certificate.

It has been a month and a half. In a month and a half we have gotten used to Bogota and somewhat familiar. Some things are hard to determine: shopping for different things in a place with five or six each of bakeries, greengrocers, butchers, pizza places, chickeneries, etc. all near, for example. You end up going to the same one for certain things, but determining which takes some experimenting. Just figuring out what the variety of bread on display entails is difficult. We have a nice cheese place where we get cheese and eggs and sliced bread–not the most intuitive combination. Finding our way around the restaurants by trial and error is yielding fruit (Coffee shops: Juan Valdez is ok, but OMA is the place to get coffee, and other things).

Of course there are the things we haven’t discovered (many!) but the feeling of urgency to discover things has passed away. We have sufficient discoveries to take them from now on at a slower pace. One of the things we are going to have to discover sooner than later is where to get good shoes. One of the interesting things about downtown Bogota is that those kind of shops are all on the same street. So you just figure out where the street full of shoe stores is and suddenly you have a most ample selection. I have these cheap Adidas Sambas that are the best shoes I have ever had: need to find the same again.

We have not traveled, and how I want to travel into Boyaca, but now is the time to search for a job. And we have been making friends, which can be like traveling and they might help with jobs–in Colombia, knowing people is very important. I don’t need a job (I don’t think I’ve managed to spend $1000 here yet), but the point of a job is to know where we’ll work so we can get our own place. To get our own place would be very nice since we are makers of a place our own.

Curious Thing

One of the most exhausting things I’ve done so far was to pay unwavering attention to a college professor who harangued me for about two hours. Paying attention is something that always requires effort, but the curious thing about all this has been how hard it is to strain my way back into the channels of Spanish fluency.

I remember when I first arrived in Bogota I was frustrated at how little Spanish I was exposed to because we know a lot of people who speak English and we have our class all in English. It is no problem for me to concentrate in English and to deal with such things as require patient and extended attention—as long as they’re worthwhile. But for Spanish I only had occasional conversations which didn’t try the range of my Spanish all that much, and the news every night.

It has usually been a strain for me to re-acquire the mode—or whatever it is—of reading Spanish. It is very difficult at first, and not much enjoyable. After a while, however, I am able to return to the book with less difficulty and more pleasure. I do not have the pleasure of Spanish letters they way I have the pleasure of English letters because my Spanish vocabulary is limited and I feel the constriction of that in a way I no longer experience in English (I used to experience the same thing, only backwards, when I was 12 years old and came out of Colombia to attend school entirely in English).

It requires a great deal of concentration for me to pay attention, and then the effort of assuring the person addressing me, adequately—with jokes, with comments that indicate comprehension of his gist, etc., all that adds up. I want that sort of thing because I feel handicapped without an adequate range of vocabulary; I also want it because have the experience of English words suggesting themselves and I have no translation or I suspect the translation I have is a false cognate. One needs the exposure and the mistakes in order to learn and overcome shortcoming. Especially when you are trying to convey a sense of intelligence and competence in areas of higher education, this thing can produce a certain strain.

I have noticed that many Colombians who have learned to speak English with a great deal of fluency have never managed to cut, as it were, the channels in their brain through which the language flows. They still make mistakes that betray a Spanish sort of thinking in regard to grammar and syntax (the reverse is true: Americans who have a fluency of Spanish but betray English ways of grammar still). And this is my fear in my use of Spanish. I have a good accent that can readily throw them off—though I still feel I have to concentrate not only to speak but to listen to myself to make sure I don’t have any subtle English-broadening-of-the-vowels creeping in. Most people who exchange words with me seem to think I have a good command of Spanish and will either say I speak very well or even tell me it is perfect (one needs to factor in that they are comparing, so it isn’t a true judgment; in other words, they are pleased that I don’t speak the way that, say, ambassador Brownfield unfortunately does, even though that isn’t saying much; they’re not expecting me to speak like a native speaker). My problem, however, is that I have caught myself and have been caught getting tangled up in the syntax from time to time, especially in conversations that go beyond the exchange of basic information.

I hope the channels of my mind can be cut or reopened so that the Spanish can flow through them more readily, but right now I’m a little weary. It is a long road out, I suppose, but a proper sense of inferiority is a very useful thing. The things that are worth doing are the hard things, and the pleasures worth attaining are the ones that come after much effort. At least I hope so, because the road before me into a comprehensive grasp of Spanish such as will lead me to the land of highest Spanish competency is one that looks long and difficult.

Vainas of the Unexamined Life

The word “vaina” is one that has come up a lot recently, and inhabits that strange space somewhere in the realm of Spanish slang or vulgarity the which I always have a hard time penetrating. I do not know why it is, because I have no similar problems with English (other than the use of the word jackass, which apparently is forbidden to the timid persons of Iowa and the use of which got me kicked out of the internet roach motel, lo these many years ago). The word “vaina” can simply mean the sheath of a sword—or just a sheath—and proceeds, according to the Royal Academy in Madrid, from a Latin cognate the which I will not trouble to elaborate.

But here in Colombia the word means shady business deals, mostly, and is applied to all manner of things from money laundering operations to anything connected with a politician. As you can see, it is pretty useful slang, if it is slang. They also use it as an expression of incredulity, “Que va!” as if you had achieved the ultimate cash cow, which I suppose must somehow be a shady deal or at least connected with the government.

I heard it especially last night while talking to a professor of the dismal science, and I found it particularly apt on his lips. He teaches at the oldest university in Colombia and one of the oldest in Latin America. I was talking to him because a person from church knows him and for reasons I do not entirely understand is really eager to help me get a job and stay here. So here is the crazy part, the guy is going to put my resume in at said university to see if I can get a job teaching. He spent two hours preparing me for an interview with the powers there.

Que vainas, no? I expect very little to come of this, but it is worth a try and a few hours extending and translating the resume. He also explained to me that higher education in Colombia can be aptly characterized by the word vaina.

Speaking of which, I have been reaping a little crop of small successes after long attempts so that now on my fully expanded resume (in Colombia it is not a real resume unless it runs to 3 pages, I learned) includes a section of publications:

“Another World” and “October’s Showers,” poetry published in The Mythic Circle, 31 (July 2009).

“Warming up after Bogota: La Vega and Villeta,” a travel account published online at Colombia Reports (colombiareports.com), 6-29-2009.

“The Hobbit and Middle Earth,” a review essay published in The Minas Tirith Evening-Star: the Journal of the American Tolkien Society, 38:1 (Spring 2009).

“The Children of Hurin,” a review essay published in The Minas Tirith Evening-Star: the Journal of the American Tolkien Society, 37:3/4 (Autumn/Winter 2008).

“The Wind in the Gutters,” a short story forthcoming in Aoife’s Kiss, (March 2010).

How is that for vainas?

A New Perplexity

They had arrived. Not many, but a few.

“I can . . . see?” one said.

“More like feel . . . no,” another said.

“I am conscious of participation,” said the third, and the room was silent following this statement.

“What is it like?” the professor asked.

“Flowing,” said the first.

“Feeling with the eyes, sight like a river,” said the second.

“We need a new word—it’s so new and entire,” the third said.

“Pre-cognition?” asked the professor, an avid reader of Philip K. Dick.

“We’re pre-cogs?” the second one asked, smiling.

“It’s not exactly super-sensibility, is it?” someone asked.

“No, it is an awareness of the operations of one’s mind in shaping . . . configuring . . . in molding or perhaps ordering is better . . . in arranging experience of the world, a heightened self-consciousness without the alienation . . . without—”

“Without,” the third one now said, “the distorting separation of subject and object.”

“They’re still distinct, but not separate,” the first added, and there was a pause.

“How—” the professor began to ask.

“How can it be?” the third asked.

“No. How is it unlike normal separation?”

“It is a distinction without separation and a union without dissolution. Both perfectly distinct and united.”

“At once?”

The five subjects, two of which had been silent up till now, looked at each other.

The second spoke: “Alternating very rapidly, perhaps.”

The professor looked confused and the third subject frowned.

“At least at first it seemed to be,” the first said. “But I think it accelerated to reach a point at which it became indistinguishable—the alternation, that is.”

“I can sense—perhaps sense is the word!” the third exclaimed and paused. Then she resumed, “I can sense your confusion arising out of you generally,” indicating the professor, “and sometimes focusing itself with a little indignation . . . no—energy—”

The first subject reached over to touch the fourth. “You have cancer, I can see . . . sense it. I can—I am able . . . am aware of the working of your physical body and something is not well in the lung—”

“I sense it too,” said the second, leaning forward. “I can move in—ah! You’re resisting it!”

“Mental contact!” the third exclaimed.

There was a long silence in the room, with intent expressions on the faces of the five subjects and mingled curiosity and confusion on the rest. The professor was typing rapidly, silent.

“I think I can reach the cancer—I mean with my hand—and hold it to separate it,” the first one said to the fourth.

“I’m not sure I’m ready for this,” the fourth said, shrinking away involuntarily.

“Understandable,” the third observed.

July Blab

A day characterized by amazing chicken breaded somehow in peanuts and also an amazing yucca croquette.

It is 57F and people are complaining about the amazing cold.

I need to write guides to this and that now that we don’t look at things as strangely as when we first arrived, but I have to come up with a way to use the Chronicles of Narnia a lot for a listening exercise so all the blogging you get is blab.

Museo Nacional, the place to be

on Saturdays at 12:30.

This coming:

Conciertos especiales
Auditorio Teresa Cuervo Borda. Entrada libre (!!!)

Mariana Nagles y Daniel Pérez, violines
Osiris Lobo, cello
Stefan Haas, tiorba

Obras de A. Falconieri, G. G. Kapsberger, A. Corelli, D. Castello, G. P. Teleman, F. J. Haydn, A. Vivaldi

Eventful & Busy

Interesting times around here. Class windeth toward an end so we are working on requirements for this and that and the other.

Here is a financial reflection I also find interesting: we went to a little place to get food as traditional as it gets. For our soup with potatoes and noodles, and our main course of chicken, rice, fried potatoes, noodles and beans (Katrina had squash instead of noodles in the main course, and I’m worried about her carbohydrate intake now) we paid ten thousand. Usually you don’t tip but I left the guy another thousand. For two cappuccinos and a little bit of shortbread with some fruit on top at a nice coffee place, the same with no tip.

Of course, after the second I’m not wondering whether it might not be time to take one of those purges one regularly has to take around here to make sure there are no lingering parasites in the digestive tract.

Tipacoque: Estampas de Provincia, by Eduardo Caballero Calderon

Tipacoque is an old and little town in eastern Boyaca. It used to be a Chibcha town (Muisca, to be precise—the Chibchas with the El Dorado tradition of covering a chap in gold and then having him actually wash it off by diving into the lake), as many of the cities and villages of the eastern Andes in Colombia used to be (hence names like Fusagasuga, Chiquinquira, Facatativa, and other shorter varieties of which Bogota is one; Tipacoque was originally Zipacoque). Caballero recounts the manners and customs of this remote village and its surroundings in the early part of the 20th Century. The book, then, is not a novel, but rather a collection of vignettes.

The descriptions Caballero recorded capture places, atmospheres, types and characters, situations and without sentimentality the memory of a way of life that has passed out of the world. In many ways Tipacoque is like Garcia Marquez’s La Mala Hora (The Evil Hour) in that it presents a place and its way of life in all its redolence. Tipacoque is unlike La Mala Hora in that it lacks a plot, and a plot would have helped to carry a book such as this to a wider audience, though it might have cost Caballero a certain freedom to wander and reflect.

As it is, the book is valuable for its descriptions and evocations of way of life in rural Colombia. I have little experience with Spanish letters yet, but when writers like Marquez and Caballero lean vigorously into the description of the character of a place and by the care of patient, long observation demonstrate their love for the people they record in unending, languid sentences the atmosphere of which I have never encountered elsewhere, the way humor and accurate detail blossom with poetry and yield their furtive, midnight fruit under a tangled vine of words . . . then I find the immense satisfaction of Literature. I have not read widely enough in the realm of Spanish letters, as I have said, and so I can only compare Caballero to Marquez his compatriot, but I find them much alike in style. Like Marquez, Caballero is a master in the cumulative effects of rich, atmospheric description—though not exactly one to exploit those effects as successfully as he achieves them. The difference perhaps is that Caballero’s humor is a bit more bright and gentle—though when it comes to Colombian politics, no matter how cheerfully made, the joke ends up being pretty bleak (which is not to say the joke is a failure: give me grim humor whenever you can).

While the book has no plot, it has a few other things that help it maintain a certain coherence: the geographical location keeps things together, the parallel opening and closing, and the loose association of ideas developed in each chapter. One of the most humorous links between chapters is the one in which a death threat becomes a joke at the author’s expense and introduces the best chapter of all of them: a meditation on the rural night.

Here are some excerpts from that chapter:

Entonces se me revelo la noche, la gran noche rural, pues al fin y al cabo los hombres de la ciudad encontramos en ello nuestro camino a Damasco.

Then the night was revealed to me, that great and rural night, for after all we men of the city find in it our road to Damascus.

I’m not sure the allusion to the conversion of St. Paul is the most accurate, but perhaps it works better for being slightly inaccurate. It strikes me as apt because he wants to stress not so much the encounter as the journey.

So he sets up a contrast between rural and urban, proceeding to elaborate a description of the night of the cities:

La primera parte de la noche urbana borbota como un caldo que se fermenta, y los ruidos tienen una sonoridad peculiar que no tuvieron durante el dia. Los coches ruedan de prisa sobre el pavimento despertando misteriosas oquedades, que hacen pensar en camaras y pasillos subterraneos. Los tranvias gimen dolorosamente en las curvas de masiado [sic] forzadas y la rueda del trolley despide chispas azules al chocar en las junturas metalicas de los alambres. Los hombres caminan al azar, despacio, mirando las vitrinas de las tiendas donde los objetos se ven mas brillantes y mas raros que durante el dia, y a veces se detienen formando remolinos en le crucero de las calles a donde afluye una corriente turbia que conduce a los barrios obreros. La gente forma cola a las puertas de los cines, donde pululan los pequeños vendedores de diarios y de loterias, que gritan su estribillo; y los limosneros—que tienen a la luz artificial un aspecto mas ruin y un aire mas miserable—tienden la mano por debajo de los harapos. Y por las puertas de los cafes se vuelca sobre la calle un estrepito de voces y de vajilla que hiere los oidos y un tufo recalentado y pastoso que se resiste a pasar por la garganta.

(In translation I am one for taking liberties.)

At first the urban night bubbles like a fermenting mixture, and sounds take on sonority they never have during the day. The cars roll hurriedly over the pavement summoning a sound of mysterious hollows that suggest underground chambers and passages. The trams groan with the labor of tight curves, and the wheel of the trolley showers blue sparks as it strikes the metallic junctures in the wires. Men walk at random, slowly, gazing into the counters of stores where the objects appear more brilliant and rare than during the day. And sometimes the current of pedestrians slows and forms whirlpools at intersections where a turbid confluence runs toward the barrios of the workers. The people line up at the doors of the cinemas where swarm petty salesmen with their newspapers and lottery tickets, hawking with peculiar intonation; and the beggars—in the artificial light they take on a look of greater ruin and an air of greater misery—reach a hand out from under their rags. And through the doors of cafes is poured both a din of voices and cutlery painful to the ears and a warm, mealy stench that sticks in the throat.

He goes on from there to sing of the rural night, the astonished night of the country. Tipacoque is not knows as his best work, which really makes me eager to read further into his opus.

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