What is the allure of Duluth? How shall I examine it? Duluth of the lake, of Superior street paved with brick, of the ever steaming grates and manholes, Canal street, the pale and sloven natives, the cavernous and overheated restaurants, the gulls overhead, the ducks in the harbor, the architecture of the early twentieth century, the curving tangle of overpasses, the Native Americans, the discreet interstate hidden away, the hills of a harbor town.
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The wind was strong on the harbor today. We missed the storm of the previous day so we watched a thousand foot ship enter the harbor and spin so that it would not have to turn when it was weighed full of coal. In the freshwater lakes that ship can go for a hundred years where the salt-sea ships only last a quarter of that time, we were told. We watched one of the crew of this long and long-lived ship ride a bicycle from one end to the other. We went between the high steel sides of the quays with the gravity loaders. At the top run tracks where the railroad cars dump their load into bins that can hold four car-loads each. These, in turn can drop their contents out onto ships floating on the water below. Apparently these great steel structures saw their peak of activity during WWII. They are still in use.
The grain elevators also tower over the harbor. Tons of grain come in to fill the ships. Moving cargo by water is less expensive than either train or truck, which accounts for the glory of Duluth in our age. Duluth’s tallest building is a double cement elevator capable of holding enough cement to load down two ships.
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Change is not good. Our first experience with Bread & Breakfasts is still our best. We stayed at the Austrian Bread & Breakfast in Tacoma long ago; the old Austrian woman who ran it was a model: breakfast at the time of our choice, breakfasts none of which I disapproved, coffee one looked forward to, cream not fraudulent substitutes, excellent conversation and a well-decorated place of much sense. Ever since my attitude toward Bread & Breakfasts has soured: they give you bad coffee, they use half-n-half, the people have pallid or effete personalities, they indulge in the despicable American practice of serving pancakes or so-called french toast or other culinary eccentricities consisting of sweet food for breakfast, they either over decorate or decorate badly, they neglect to install worthwhile lighting among other things.
The place we went was a noble old Victorian house where good reading places were rather wanting, the decorating had nothing of character, it was inexpert and banal and frilly, the coffee was substandard, the cream was metallic, the breakfast gave the idea it was hardly attempted and I had the unpleasant sensation the innkeepers were christians in some evangelical way. This last probably explains all the rest. They somehow managed every possible mediocrity with expert proficiency.
Give me instead the reliable impersonality of the hotel with those distances that ocean are between oneself and the people attending, with standardized, unpretentious if uninspiring decor, with lamps and windows one can count on, where breakfast is left at one’s discretion, where Starbuck’s is five blocks away. I am willing to experiment with a place down on Canal street over Old Chicago, some vast hotel built in a warehouse; I will take the reliable and unimpeachable Radission; but never again a Bread & Breakfast for me. Not, at least, unless it is run by a foreigner.
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We did see a foreigner in Duluth. We wanted coffee after departing the Bread & Breakfast so we went down to the canal area and looked in upon Caribou. Caribou was packed to the top of the antlers. We went along to another place my wife had noticed and found it entirely empty. The chap serving seemed to me an Italian by accent and complexion. He wore a cap and pronounced Cappuccino the way one would expect an Italian to pronounce it. There a fine cup of coffee was had.
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Toby’s in Hinckley must have a reputation. On the way back we stopped in to see what was there. What is not there? A restaurant, a bakery, a gift shop, a lounge, a diner, a truck stop, Americana, and crowds of disheveled travelers. The bakery has a constant crowd before its display; there is no wait for the restaurant but no tables to spare either. I got my cappuchino (a coffee shop too!) in a mug—the mug is the ultimate way for such a receptacle to resist any aesthetic grace; no widening at the rim, no tapering at the bottom, nothing of character on that prosaic cylinder with its predictable, thick handle other than a stupid joke printed on it, or an advertisement, or worse, an announcement calculated to open up a dreary conversation—and I ordered some diner fare. Somewhere I have read an account that leaves me thinking gloriously of this meal, perhaps in a Nick Adam’s story: an oval of griddled ground beef, sauteed onions and gravy along with hash browns and coleslaw on the side. It was hot, sufficient and the hash browns tasted like cheap oil.
We had a table located right where anybody entering or departing the restaurant must pass. It was a good place for observing both the clientele and the harried staff attending. One of the bakers was wandering near, answering some questions in a slow, dull-witted way. An older woman and a very young lad matched people to tables in a harried manner that suggested polite drowning men. Our waitress was perfectly morosely polite. (It seems her shift ended before we were through; not many bites into our meal we got the check and instructions about who would help us should we require further assistance.) And I was satisfied so I left our departed waitress the sort of tip I did not think my wife would approve. It is not bad service that I dislike: it is when my expectations are not met that I object.
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Less than a mile from Hinkley there are five or six blasted willows by the side of the road. No tree seems to have suffered so much from the curse on the ground as the willow. No tree seems to have suffered less than the aspen. We saw the aspens bright yellow, cheerful under the low clouds like a mouth full of golden teeth. South of Hinkley the colors are more varied than north. North you have green pine, yellow aspen and grey empty trees. But south you have the red of the oaks, the orange of some other chaps, in wondrous varieties of all the kinds I have not yet learned to tell (black walnut or is it black hickory, and elms, various oaks, birch kind and ashes and such).
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My wife agreed to drive, so I read. I finished Scruton’s elevated volume, his argument for high culture. It had the effect of making me rather more than usually critical when under its influence. Having dispatched Scruton and his misgivings about cinema which amounted to an objection to photography as art, which was rather well executed and rendered me even more ill-disposed to tolerate photography in general, I read Epstein who talked about the banalities of traveling and being a tourist. Epstein writes the engaging essay; his company in travel is pleasant. I would not recommend the company of Scruton, as reading him is likely to heighten your critical faculties at moments when it is not strictly helpful. Epstein has a sense of humor which also wears off on the traveler’s view and renders observation more tolerable.
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Duluth, Duluth. I want to go live in Duluth. Everything about it is magical. It is a great city without being very large; it has hills like Seattle but also the cold; it has a downtown like Minneapolis but also the harbor; it has many great houses, great buildings, great places. It also has a casino, Bread & Breakfasts and probably other such places of squalor. The newer buildings have not overshadowed the old buildings; everything is there descending the hill in tiers. And always from the manholes, from the grills of the drains comes the steam, and the pavements gleam, and the fog creeps over the harbor below, and if you look down Superior street at the right moment, all of the lights will be green.